In the tradition of solitary seafarers, Sam McKinney sailed up the intricate west coast in his 25-foot boat Kea, retracing George Vancouver's expedition of some 200 years ago. Alone but never lonely as he cruised from Puget Sound to Queen Charlotte Strait, he considered the sailors, the landscapes and sescapes, the local people and the natural phenomena of tides, waterfalls and winds. Much has changed, but much remains the same.